Category: Chinese

Plain Mochi

12/8/2015

To continue my recent obsession of experimenting with Chinese treats, I recall eating one memorable "new style" mooncake that had a ball of mochi in the center instead of the traditional salty yolk, which was a win-win in my book since I love mochi and hate salty yolks. A bit of research implied that the recipe for mochi was just as deceptively "simple" as that for mooncakes ... except, this time, it really was that simple! Apparently, mochi is quite forgiving as a recipe, though obviously, some mochi will taste/feel/look better than others.

This recipe is intended to make several mochi balls without fillings, as these were intended to be embedded inside other desserts such as mooncakes. While I had perused many sites for tips and techniques, most of the below recipe was adapted from Just One Cookbook.

115 g Mochiko (sweet rice flour)
50 g sugar
180 mL water (or substitute half with coconut milk)

Whisk together the mochiko and sugar. Pour in the liquid and whisk until everything is completely blended.
Cover the bowl with a plate and microwave on high for 1 minute. Using a rubber or silicone spatula, mix up the contents (making sure to scrape down the sides), then microwave for another minute. Scrape down and mix, then microwave for 30 seconds. Mix the now-pasty contents one more time to ensure everything is blended.
Lay parchment paper down on a work surface and keep half a cup of corn or potato starch nearby. Using two spoons, measure out about 20 g of the mochi paste onto a scale. Coating your fingertips and palms with the starch, pick up the measured mochi paste and roll into a ball, then dip directly into the starch to cover the surface more thoroughly, brushing off the excess and ensuring that it is no longer sticky to handle. Repeat until the mochi paste has been used up.
Can be eaten plain, or stored in an air-tight container.

Note: This is one of the few times where I didn't adjust the sugar levels. Not only was it already pretty mild in sweetness, but the sugar is apparently important in maintaining the pliability of the mochi, so cutting it out unduly would have adverse affects on the texture. Also, my instructions on how to handle the dough is simply my personal preference for how to get a VERY sticky paste into a prettier-looking ball. You can certainly feel free to experiment with your own techniques.

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Mooncake (Yue Bing)

12/6/2015

Two weeks ago, I received a Black Friday advertisement from a baking site with some deals on mooncake molds and mooncake recipe books. I laughed to myself, wondering who would actually make them at home, because I've always felt that Chinese baking was extraordinarily finicky - the recipes always seemed like the TRUE science that people keep claiming baking to be, as opposed to the pies and cookies I usually do, which are quite tolerant of experimentation and sloppy measurements.

But then curiosity sat like the devil on my shoulder and I started looking up what it actually took to make your own mooncakes ... and wow, it looked so SIMPLE. Only 3 ingredients, of which the one exotic ingredient (golden syrup) could be substituted with plain ol' honey, and no arcane techniques involved! One thing led to another, I found myself suddenly in possession of a set of plastic mooncake plunger molds, and I found that, yes ... Chinese baking is extraordinarily finicky. This is probably the first and only recipe I have where the notes section is longer than the actual instructions, and I have never made so many batches of the same thing in as many days, (accidentally) figuring out every failure case possible in order to get things just right.

Take the following with a grain of salt; I have a feeling that things may be slightly different with other people's kitchen appliances and I had to do a lot of guesswork reading between badly translated lines. Make sure to read all the notes beforehand so that you can learn from my mistakes!

This recipe was mostly adapted from the China Si Chuan Food site.

flour for dusting
500 g filling (such as red bean paste, lotus seed paste, etc)

Wrapper:

56 g vegetable oil
150 g honey
4 g water
230 g flour

Egg wash:

1 egg

Honey wash (optional):

1/3 cup water
2 tbsp honey

Makes: approx 24 cakes

To make the wrapper: Pour the vegetable oil, honey, and water into a large mixing bowl. Whisk well until they are all combined. Sift in a third of the flour and whisk. Sift in the rest of the flour and use a spatula to fold the flour in - as you work, the dough will start to become shaggy. Do not overwork it - go slowly, and you may notice that the flour slowly "soaks in". When there is very little loose flour left, set aside the spatula and use your hands to knead the dough together into one mass. Roll into a ball - most of the dry flour should by now be absorbed, but if you still see uneven bits, knead the ball a few more times. Once everything is evenly mixed, wrap well with saran wrap, and let rest for 1 hour.
(For the proportions of filling and dough, see notes below.) Measure the filling out into separate portions according to weight and roll each portion into a ball. (If you are inserting a mochi in the center, wrap the filling around the mochi until it is completely covered, then roll into a ball.) If you are working with a filling that is more moist (such as lotus seed) you can keep it chilled in either the refrigerator or the freezer before using.
Pinch off and measure out the appropriate amount of dough for one cake and gently start to flatten the center of the dough, forming a disc with thicker edges and a thinner center. Place the ball of filling in the center, then continue gently pressing and thinning the dough up the sides of the filling until the edges wrap up and over the top. Pinch closed the seam and any other holes in the dough, so that the filling is completely covered. Roll the whole ball between your palms until the surface is more or less smooth. Do this for each ball of filling until you are either out of dough or filling.
Set the oven rack to the upper third of the oven and set the oven to 350 F.
Coat the resultant cake ball with a layer of flour, then carefully brushing off the excess. Put the cake ball in the mold, then press the mold onto the table. Give the plunger a half dozen good, strong stamping motions, then lift up the mold. If the cake does not automatically fall out, push on the plunger while the mold is lifted, and the cake should come out.
Line a baking sheet with foil and arrange the cakes on top. Bake for 6 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, make the egg wash by whisking the egg.
Take out the half-baked mooncakes and brush a thin layer of the egg wash over them, then return to the oven and continue baking for 12 minutes or until the mooncakes become golden brown.
(Optional) I sometimes add a honey wash after the cakes cool down a little bit, which not only helps the baked dough become moist and soft faster, but can help put a nice sweet-ish glaze on the skin. Whisk together the honey and water until the honey is dissolved, then brush over the baked mooncakes. Return the mooncakes to the oven for about 3-4 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let cool. Wrap in film or place in an airtight container. Wait for 1-2 days for the pastry to become soft. (Or, if you prefer, they may be consumed immediately for a "crunchier" shell.)

Notes:

The proportions for the wrapper are VERY important! Do not try to convert to cups and tablespoons - I tried and they failed miserably. The only way I was able to get a reliable dough was to use weighing, which I had been thus far able to avoid even for cake recipes. The resultant ball of dough should be slightly oily, pliable, and a consistent amber throughout, with no hints of dry flour at all. Too much flour, and the dough became too dry and would break up when handled. Too much oil, and the dough wouldn't stretch - pressing and kneading for mooncake wrappers would result in the dough starting to separate.

Also be aware that you may be leaving behind as much as a teaspoon of oil or honey behind if you are using another bowl for measuring and then pouring into the mixing bowl. To make it easy on myself, I've simply poured them directly into the mixing bowl, zeroing out the value in between each ingredient, or if using multiple bowls, make sure to use a spatula to scrape down the bowl.
For small mooncakes: 22g filling, 32g dough
For large mooncakes with a mochi center: 20g mochi, 40g filling, 65g dough (you will want a thicker wrapping for the large cake to help it keep its shape)
The goal is to "roll" the dough up and around the ball of filling, and this step is why it's important to have a filling that is dry enough to have some "resistance" - otherwise, pressing will simply squeeze the filling out too. The trick is to press the center of the dough disc into the approximate thickness you want, leaving the thicker dough around the outer rim, then once the filling is in place, using your thumbs to continue "pressing" the thicker dough so that the excess is squeezed up, NOT pushed up - pushing the dough upwards may create tears in the wrapper. If your filling is too soft to push against, you can pinch the dough edges to the desired thickness while continuing to mold it around the filling, or you can roll the filling into balls on a baking sheet and put it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so.
I like to put the rack in the upper third of the oven to prevent the bottom of the cakes from becoming too dark and bitter. Depending on your oven, you may or may not need to do this.
The mold I am using are the plastic plunger types - not the traditional wooden ones, which have a different technique for filling and loosening the cake from. To fill these plastic molds, I lightly squeeze the ball into an oval shape so that I'm sure I can fit it inside the mold without catching the dough on the edges. Once inside the mold completely (don't worry if some of the dough still sticks out), push the mold down onto the work surface and let the work surface push the excess dough completely into the mold (the pressure will deform the cake so that it fills the interior of the mold without tearing).

Don't be afraid to use a little more strength than you think you need on the plunger - being too gentle can result in the design and shape softening and disappearing when the cake starts cooking. The force will also help to compact the filling and dough, and there is little chance that anything will "squeeze" out. I tend to just slap my hand down on the plunger 3 or 4 times rather than trying to do a single press.

Lotus Seed Paste

11/28/2015

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I browsed a good half dozen sites on how to make lotus seed paste and tried to adapt a balance between convenience and tastiness. As much as I would love to have "traditional" or "most flavorful", a complex recipe usually means it never gets made, and I like my lotus seed-flavor way too much to miss out on a chance of having it in homemade mooncakes.

12 oz dried lotus seeds
1/4 cup neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola
1/2 to 3/4 cups sugar

Rinse lotus seeds and soak in a bowl of water until softened, at least 4 hours or overnight.
Split each seed in half and remove the small bitter sprout/germ in the center. (Note: Some dried seed packets will have already done this for you - the ones I got had been pretty thorough. There had been only a handful of seeds in which I found the germ still inside. I went through all of the seeds for the sake of thoroughness, but it's not clear to me that the few that still remained would have made that much difference.)
In a large pot on the stove, cover lotus seeds completely with water and bring to a boil. Then lower heat to a simmer until tender, adding water if necessary to keep seeds covered (about 1.5 hours).
Reserve 1 cup of the lotus-seed cooking water. Drain the seeds and set aside to cool (if you wish to speed up the process, put the pot they're in into an ice bath). Transfer seeds to a food processor or blender. Process to a smooth paste (adding a splash of the reserved lotus-seed cooking water when necessary). Optionally, for a finer texture, press the paste through a fine sieve.
In a non-stick pan, combine lotus-seed paste and oil and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until oil is incorporated. Add the 1/2 cup of sugar and stir until incorporated. Taste, and add more sugar if you wish, one tablespoon at a time. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Note: For using in mooncakes, the paste has to be dry enough that it can more or less retain its shape when it is cooled, or else it will become a mess when you try to mold the cake around it. Continue to stir and let the heat dry out the paste for an additional five minutes on the stove. Also, I find that the paste should be made slightly sweeter than I prefer in order to compensate for the neutral flavor of the cake portion.

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ARCHIVE: Bao Zi Dough (from Smallwares)

1/1/2015

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Smallwares

⅔ cup warm water
2 teaspoons instant yeast
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon canola oil
1¼ cups bread flour, plus more for if needed
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda

In a small bowl, whisk together the water, yeast and sugar until the yeast dissolves. Let the mixture sit until the yeast starts to get foamy and bloom, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the oil and set aside.
Meanwhile, sift the bread flour, salt and baking soda together. Add the yeast mixture to the dry ingredients and stir using a rubber spatula. If the dough looks sticky, add 1 additional tablespoon of flour at a time until it is less sticky.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth. Cover the dough with a damp kitchen towel and let the dough rest until it has doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours. Punch the dough down to flatten it.
Portion the dough into balls that are 2 inches in diameter and let rest for 5 minutes. Flatten each ball into a disk 3 inches in diameter.
Fill the buns with your filling of choice and wrap by gathering the edge and twisting slightly. Cover with a damp kitchen towel to keep the bao from drying out.
Place the buns in a steam basket lined with parchment paper and steam until the buns have expanded, 7 to 9 minutes. Serve.

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ARCHIVE: Nian Gao (Chinese Rice Cake w/ Red Beans)

1/1/2015

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1/2 cup olive oil
3 eggs
3 cups milk
1 cup sugar
1 lb sticky rice powder
1 can Xiao Chang brand red beans

Servings: 25

Mix everything except the red beans together. Pour into a baking pan.
Drop spoonfulls of the red beans in. Let them sink.
Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour.

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ARCHIVE: Dumpling filling

1/1/2015

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2.2 kilograms ground pork (mostly lean, but with some fat)
1/2 medium-size Chinese cabbage (finely chopped)
1 tablespoon ginger (minced)
2 teaspoons garlic (minced)
90 grams scallions (finely chopped)
20 grams chopped cilantro or parsley (finely chopped)
1 egg
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese Shaoxin cooking wine (or dry Chinese sherry)
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons salt (1 teaspoon for preparing the cabbage, 1 teaspoon for the filling)
1 chicken bullion cube
1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 teaspoon brown sugar

Sprinkle one teaspoon of salt over the chopped Chinese cabbage and mix (this will draw out water from the cabbage). Let it rest for 10 minutes, then squeeze out the excess water with your hands.
In a large bowl, combine the ground pork, cabbage, ginger, garlic, scallions, cilantro and egg. Add the soy sauce, wine, sesame oil, remaining teaspoon of salt, chicken bullion cube, five-spice powder, white pepper and brown sugar. Mix with chopsticks in a clockwise direction just until all ingredients are incorporated. Do not over-mix.

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Plain Mochi

Mooncake (Yue Bing)

Lotus Seed Paste

ARCHIVE: Bao Zi Dough (from Smallwares)

ARCHIVE: Nian Gao (Chinese Rice Cake w/ Red Beans)

ARCHIVE: Dumpling filling

Sweet Enough

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